Kumamoto Castle, which was originally built in its present form in 1607 (and as an earlier incarnation in 1467), has recently undergone a major transformation. In 2016, a major earthquake struck Kumamoto city, damaging much of its architecture and infrastructure. Sadly, Kumamoto Castle was not spared, and large amounts of the castle’s foundation stones were shaken out of place, leaving parts of the structure to sag or collapse into the empty spaces left behind. Repair work on the castle began in 2017, with a ‘grand unveiling’ of the major restoration delivered in summer 2021.
From 2023, an entire ecosystem of castle-adjacent tourist attractions sprung up around the site. A micro-village of shops named ‘Sakura no Baba Josaien’, selling trinkets and snacks to certain segments of the tourist population, sits at the castle’s lower entrance. If it’s not your thing, you can bypass this by following a ramp from the castle park entrance, directly to the castle gates.
A ticket for the castle costs ¥850, which you purchase from a newly-installed ticket machine at the entry gate. From here, there’s a network of boardwalks and stairs looping around the base of the castle, leading to the central building. The boardwalk is also supplemented with lifts for visitors with special mobility needs. From a distance, Kumamoto Castle looks tiny, almost toy-like – you’d be forgiven for thinking it’ll still be tiny when you finally reach it. Somehow, though, the castle defies perspective, and becomes almost disproportionately large by the time you arrive. It’s a towering structure, which looks out over Kumamoto city; when you’re at the top, you’ll be able to see as far as Aso-Kuju National Park! The grounds and parkland surrounding the castle buildings are planted with both cherry and ginkgo trees, for spectacular colours in spring, summer and autumn.
When the castle was damaged in 2016’s earthquake, starting repairs was not a straightforward task. Kumamoto Castle is a heritage building, holding an architecturally ‘protected’ status. This means that the ongoing repairs and restorations required to keep the castle in good shape must be undertaken in the same manner as when it was originally built, to preserve the integrity of its craft heritage. While the idea is a noble one, the reality is challenging; how can a 17th century castle be rebuilt in a way that is historically accurate, but also able to withstand Japan’s regular earthquakes and typhoons?
The partial collapse of the castle offered an opportunity for trialling new methods of restoration; methods that could eventually be applied to the upkeep of all of Japan’s feudal castles. It was also a chance to employ a small army of heritage craftspeople. Already experts in their various fields (joinery, roofing, stonemasonry), the reconstruction of a castle created opportunities for these artisans to perfect and refine craft on a ‘real life’ project. Of course, the restoration work didn’t come cheap; current costs stand at nearly 63.4 billion Japanese yen (430 million US dollars).
While the maintenance of a feudal castle never truly ends, the site is now fully operational and ready to receive visitors. The interior of the castle’s main tower has been redefined as a spectacular multi-storey museum, offering insight into the history, design, and architecture of Kumamoto Castle.
Kumamoto Castle, a seat of major power in feudal Japan, also proved its worth as a modern fortress during the Satsuma rebellion of 1877. The castle was besieged by an army of 13,000 soldiers, with only 3500 defenders garrisoned inside. The siege failed and the castle repelled the attackers; it remains unclear how many satsumas were (or weren’t) thrown at the castle during this time. Disappointingly, the tower was severely damaged by fire at the end of the same year.
The journey into the castle begins at its ‘ground floor’, which contains the enormous foundation blocks which hold the castle up, and a very deep, very dark well, which would have historically supplied fresh water to the castle’s inhabitants. Steps lead up to the museum’s entrance, and along a corridor lined with the first grouping of exhibits. This first floor details life in the castle during the ‘Kato’ era, named after the feudal lord who ordered the castle’s construction, Kato Kiyomasa.
The castle has seen a seemingly-endless cycle of construction, damage, and repairs during the last four centuries. While specialist techniques in joinery and masonry have been passed down unchanged through generations of craftspeople, there have, inevitably, been broken tiles and lost hammers along the way. Modern repairs, requiring a degree of excavation, have returned these artefacts to the surface world, and they’re used as props in the telling of Kumamoto Castle’s fascinating story.
Kawara (roof tiles) and onigawara (demon roof tiles) are an intrinsic design element of traditional Japanese buildings. Each edging tile features a circle with an embossed crest (called a ‘mon’) at its end; some designs represent water, to ward off fire. Others hold the hereditary crest of whichever dynasty owns the building. Common examples are the ‘triple hollyhock’ of the Tokugawa clan, and the chrysanthemum design of the Japanese imperial family. Also placed at the highest points on a castle’s roof are two ‘shachihoko;’ fish-bodied sea monsters from Japanese mythology, believed to be capable of holding vast reserves of water inside their bodies, and likely invoked as a guardian against fire.
The museum’s layout continues on, in an upward spiral, into ever smaller levels. The lower levels house several architectural models of varying sizes, with the centrepiece model being over three metres high. Each model represents a different view of Kumamoto Castle throughout the ages, and the towering central model details a ‘skeletal’ version of the building, with the outer panelling stripped away to reveal the struts and beams that support it. Further on, collections of samurai ephemera give more insight into the material culture of Kumamoto Castle’s inhabitants. This exhibit includes the daily attire of samurai lords, as well as battle armour and a collection of weapons, including shо̄tо̄ (long knives) and wakizashi (the shorter of a samurai’s two swords).
An ornate corner of the next level details the wide range of valuable artworks which are kept in other parts of the castle. Kumamoto Castle is made up of a central tower, with other smaller towers positioned around its perimeter. There are also low-lying ‘residential’ buildings, which more closely resemble Kyoto’s Nijo Castle – now, more a ‘residence’ than a military building. These buildings were used for hosting members of feudal high society, including important military allies, or neutral parties. It was important, then, that the castle’s lord could impress his hosts with exceptional works of art, and highly refined artisanal decorations and furniture: the mediaeval humble-brag, if you will.
In the castle’s third and fourth storeys, the focus moves to the life of the castle as a structure, with installations, photographs and videos offering details of historical and contemporary repair efforts. Kumamoto suffered a devastating earthquake in 1889, and the repair work after this quake lasted from the 1920s to the 1980s. Add the 2016 earthquake into the mix, and it’s easy to see how the process of keeping Kumamoto Castle upright is also keeping several hundred specialist craftspeople in business.
The fourth floor is dedicated to the most recent round of major repairs to the castle, which began in 2017. Here, visitors can learn more about the difficult balance of maintaining both the historical and structural integrity of the castle; a process that uses both traditional building techniques and modern engineering solutions. This floor also contains a ‘digital donor’ list, featuring the names of everyone who has contributed to the castle’s massive and ongoing repair costs.
The fifth and sixth floors house observation decks, offering a 360º panoramic view of Kumamoto city (including Kumamon’s cheeky bear face – we love you, Kumamon!). On a clear day, you’ll be able to see as far as the grassy plateau of Aso-Kuju National Par, home to the Aso Volcano, which serves as a vent for the enormous Aso Caldera. You can even scan a QR code which will allow your phone to fire up a VR version of Kumamoto city from the Meiji period, for one last trip into the past.
Kumamoto Castle is immensely popular (and rightly so) – so visiting first thing in the morning or just before the ‘last admission’ time will give you the best possible chance of a quieter experience. Enjoy the climb!*
Access: The city’s ‘A-Line’ tram from JR Kumamoto Station will take you right up to the castle entrance (Kumamoto Castle Station), as detailed here.
Name: Kumamoto Castle
Address: 1-1 Honmaru, Chuo Ward, Kumamoto, 860-0002, Japan
Open: 9:00am – 5:00pm (last entry 4:30pm).
Admission: ¥850 for a combined ‘castle’ and ‘Wakuwaku-za museum’ ticket.
Website: https://castle.kumamoto-guide.jp/en/
A digital version of Kumamoto Castle’s visitor guide is available here. The castle’s website has extensive access information, including information about accessibility and availability of wheelchairs, all of which is in English.
* A lift (elevator) is available for wheelchair users and those with mobility issues, offering access to every floor of the castle.
Post by Japan Journeys.
