On the eastern edge of Toyama Bay, the emerald waters deliver with every crashing wave a new bounty of stones and minerals to the beach. Jade, quartz, granite, and jasper, among others, are up for grabs for those who know how to spot it. While this is extremely appealing to rock lovers, it’s not the only thing the waters of Asahi are known for. Decades ago, the bay was filled with cod (tara in Japanese) so a simple dish was created to make use of this abundant resource: cod soup (tara-jiru).
To make it, the locals would cleave the cod into chunks before adding it along with liver, milt, and roe to a soup of burdock root (gobō), miso paste, and green onions. The good news for regional cuisine hunters: this simple, warming soup is still enjoyed in homes, schools, and restaurants throughout Asahi to this day.
In fact, the main highway running alongside the coast, National Route 8, has earned the nickname of “tara-jiru kaidō” i.e. “cod soup road” due to the number of establishments serving it. As you drive along, you’ll pass countless banners that advertise the local specialty flapping in the breeze. We decided to stop in at one place, a roadside shokudō (casual restaurant) named Drive In Kanamori, and try it out.
Inside, a few of the tables were occupied by local workers and truck drivers rapidly eating before heading back to the grind. On the back wall was a raised tatami area with low tables and bookshelves full of manga. There, a man lounged after his meal, transfixed with the Olympic judo playing on the TV.
Tara-jiru on the menu
The menu featured all the favourites like ramen, curry rice, tonkatsu and teishoku sets, which were speedily whipped up by the no-nonsense proprietor. Of course, I was there for the local dish of tara-jiru and wouldn’t hear another word about it.
I’d read online that tara-jiru is actually somewhat of a rustic fisherman’s dish. Word has it that this dish was originally cooked by the wives of local fishermen and enjoyed while sitting on the beach. Since its transition into restaurants, it seems tara-jiru has also transitioned to the hit-lists of countless gourmet travellers.
The tara-jiru taste test
When the food was ready, we tore our eyes away from the Judo to focus on the sizeable bowl of mystery soup before me.
My partner smirked as he liberally sprinkled shichimi seasoning over his katsudon and reached for some chopsticks.
Sure, tara-jiru may not be the prettiest dish around, but it’s certainly healthy! Fish and miso — c’mon. I gave the dish a stir and revealed some hefty cuts of fish, but decided to start with the broth.
As expected, tara-jiru has quite a mild flavour: light miso with just a hint of green onion. Warming and not too punchy. Next, I navigated the bones to enjoy some of the plump and tasty cod.
Admittedly, I was envious of my partner’s rich looking katsudon, but I was glad to have tried the local fare and did my best to take down the whole bowl.
The times, they are a-changin’
Even though the tradition of Tara-jiru lives on, times have changed. Sadly, the waters in Toyama are becoming too warm for cod thanks to global warming. Unwilling to let the tradition fade away, locals now import the fish from the frosty northern seas of Tohoku and Hokkaido. In fact, thanks to the presence of cod up there, tara-jiru is also listed as a regional dish of Akita Prefecture.
Other regional cuisines around Japan
If you enjoy trying regional dishes and this sounds up your alley, definitely give it a go. But if fish soup isn’t your bag, perhaps you’d enjoy other regional specialties such as Togakushi Soba, Sara Udon, Champon, Turkish Rice or Goto Udon.
Name: Tara-jiru Kaido (cod soup road), Asahi, Toyama Prefecture
Address: The restaurant mentioned in this article is Drive In Kanamori but there are a number of other restaurants along this same stretch of road.
Post by Japan Journeys.
