Ine, the quaint fishing village in Kyōto’s northwest, is arguably one of the most unique places to visit in all of Japan. Voted one of ‘Japan’s Most Beautiful Villages,’ the small bay rises quickly into mountainous terrain while the shore boasts a 5 km stretch of traditional wooden boat houses, or funaya. Many of these are occupied by locals, while others have been converted into unique accommodations and other businesses. Operating in one of the preserved funaya is Chinzao, a rustic cafe specialising in Taiwanese tea and killer views.
Funaya boat houses
With a history dating back hundreds of years, the funaya boat houses are the epitome of fit-for-purpose design. Located right on the water’s edge, the bottom floor of these double-story wooden structures is essentially an open boat garage, while upstairs you’ll find the cosy living quarters. Perfect for someone who’s prone to climbing into a fishing boat before sunrise, wouldn’t you say?
The Government has designated Ine as a ‘Group of Traditional Buildings’—a historic preservation category that will protect this unique place for years to come. We are fortunate to be able to explore this village and get a sense of life in yesteryear.
Even though there are motorboats and cars in Ine now, the locals still dwell in the funaya, and fishing is still a big part of life. The converted funaya allow us to get an even closer look.
Chinzao Taiwanese Tea house
One such place is Chinzao, a rustic cafe specialising in Taiwanese tea. It’s located right in town, on the west side of the bay. From the street, it looks like any other boat house, but keep an eye out for the sandwich board with a teapot motif.
As you enter, the owner will wave you through to the back. There, you’re greeted by a lovely view of the gentle waters of Ine Bay, boat houses, trees, and sky.
As the seating area is technically in a boat garage, the aesthetic is just that: garage realness. Think wooden beams, fishing equipment, a boat suspended above and hodgepodge furniture. Very reminiscent of halcyon days.
Tea with a view
Chinzao carries many kinds of interesting teas, focusing on green tea and black tea from Taiwan. They believe in organic, pesticide-free farming, and purchase leaves directly from multiple tea farmers.
The menu is in Japanese, so if you don’t know your Lishan from your Guanyin (guilty!) you can always ask for a recommendation.
The tea comes served with an array of paraphernalia and an explanation on how to best brew the tea you have chosen. In our case, after pouring the hot water over the tea leaves, we should immediately pour it from the tiny teapot into the strainer over the glass one. No steeping necessary. It’s quite fun to use the special equipment — a far cry from my tea setup at home.
Kicking back with a calming Taiwanese tea while listening to sea birds and lapping water…it doesn’t get much better than that.
For tea fans, you’ll be pleased to know that you can also purchase the teas and equipment directly. You can see more information and pricing on their website so you can arrive prepared.
How to get to Chinzao
Ine is located 130 km from Kyōto. Take the JR Hashidate train from Kyōto Station to Miyuza Station or Amanohashidate Station (¥5,000) and transfer to a local bus. The “Tango-sea-land transportation” bus takes approximately 1 hour from both Amanohashidate and Miyazu Station with over 40 stops. At the time of writing, bus fares are around ¥400 from these stations to Ine town.
Name: Chinzao
Address: 69 Hirata, Ine, Yoza District, Kyōto 626-0423 (link)
Open: 10:00am–6:00pm (until 5pm Mondays, 4pm Tuesdays, closed Wednesdays)
Website: http://www.chinzao.com/
Post by Japan Journeys.
