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Retro cocktails, hip coffee, and Michelin Italian food: An evening in Yoyogi Uehara

On the outskirts of Shibuya-ku, Yoyogi Uehara has a reputation for being a sleepy town. Upscale and residential but with not much going on at night, especially outside of the izakaya and tonkatsu scene.  That may have been the case 10 years...