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Doza and Shianbashi: Secret Shrines and Nagasaki Nightlife

I first stepped into Shianbashi, Nagasaki’s best nightlife area, around lunchtime. It was predictably quiet, with most places shuttered up after a long night’s trade. I would witness the infamous evening atmosphere a bit later on, but...

Goto Udon: One Heavenly Hell Pot

Japan is a haven for noodle lovers. With various types and even more regional variations, there’s something for everyone. Among the heavy hitters is udon, a thick, wheat noodle beloved by locals. In summer, it can be...

Neon and Noodles at Nagasaki Shinchi Chinatown

Nagasaki Chinatown is a shopping and dining district in downtown Nagasaki, rich in history and bursting with delicious local fare. For the 200-odd years that Japan’s borders were closed to foreigners during the Sakoku (closed country) policy,...

Turkish Rice at Kyushu’s First-Ever Cafe “Tsuruchan”

I’m not the first to suggest Nagasaki’s food is a metaphor for the city itself; an exciting, and at times confusing, blend of cultures and influences. For hundreds of years, Japan has been sampling new ingredients from...

Nagasaki Champon: The City’s Most Famous Regional Dish

Also known as Chanpon (with an ‘n’), this is a local Nagasaki dish which was heavily influenced by Chinese cuisine. It originated in the early 1900s at one of Nagasaki’s Chinese restaurants where the local Chinese students would come to eat. Chock-full...

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