Spend a few days exploring Tokyo and you’ll start to get a sense of its enormity. For every neon-lit neighbourhood, there’s an old-fashioned counterpart across town, bustling in its own special way. A visit to a ‘Shitamachi’ (downtown) pocket has a way...
In its sunken hearth, the fire crackles enticingly. Its guardian, an elderly woman with a face formidably composed of smile lines, waves us closer. We settle onto the tatami and sink into a companionable silence. The moment feels festive, ancient, sweet. It’s...