It’s easy to forget what century you’re in as you explore the cobbled, hilly streets of Higashiyama. This part of Kyoto is famous for its high concentration of beautiful and historic shrines, temples, tea houses and restaurants. As I wandered along, lost...
In its sunken hearth, the fire crackles enticingly. Its guardian, an elderly woman with a face formidably composed of smile lines, waves us closer. We settle onto the tatami and sink into a companionable silence. The moment feels festive, ancient, sweet. It’s...